On your car, you are looking for about 170psi on all cylinders. You need to start with a compression test, done with the gas pedal floored while cranking. The temperature gauge is basically a single wire that is not a terribly accurate indication of engine temp - an IR thermometer pointed at the thermostat housing is a much better indication, especially if that single wire fell off or broke, which may be the case if the temp gauge is not registering at all. Replacement info is on the forum).ĭon't throw parts at the car, until you diagnose properly. This is a $5 fix, if you can solder, or else any computer store can do this for you. Have you pulled your spark plugs to see if they are wet, fouled, look lean, etc.? Can you get a code 12 from the computer (if the CEL is working at all - if not, it is possible that the capacitors in the ECU are drying out or leaking, etc. When you start your car from cold start, it should idle high - about 1500 rpm or so, and slowly drop to 800 rpm steady warm idle. You should give more detail as to the idle, etc. A compression test will verify your timing. Many people time the valves to cylinder #1 - however on this car, the belt is timed to cylinder #4 firing, and ignition timed to cylinder #1. You need to start from scratch, frankly, and do a compression test to see if the car was timed correctly when you had your timing belt replaced. Can someone please assit me in old school troubleshooting? :huh:įirst in old school troubleshooting is that your CEL MUST be on with the key on, and off once the car starts. from home until I can get my rig running for return trip. I know that this is a sign of cylinder,rings and piston wear. Upon starting, the exhaust puts out a gray/blue smoke but is short lived. The oil level was good and only showed a qt. One more thing, the temp guage was flaking out (not registering temp) during the trip but the coolant level and the engine were all normal. I have only basic tools and no resources to assist me in the repair. This has not made a change in the performance or sound of the engine. Upon arrival at trip destination, I replaced the IAT sensor as a guess as to the issue. The fuel filter is unable to be changed due to it being frozen on so tight it tries to bend the copper fuel lines when torqued for removal. I performed a tuneup in August of 2012 which consisted of distributor cap, wires, plugs, oil chg, air filter and fluid refills where needed. The water pump was replaced,prior to the trip. Engine Sounds like it has fouled plugs, smells rich, has tapping like low oil, tailpipe has black residue that has smell of fuel. The check engine light is not on nor has it come on at any time. It sputters as if it will die and the entire rig shimmies with the increased acceleration. 2000 mi.) with no power upon acceleration. I drove it long distance and it began running rough(after approx. It has been running ok, but, with high idle and severe surging. The sidekick starts up like a dream, but, idles terribly rough. I have a 95 Suzuki Sidekick JX 4x4 16 v 1.6 L engine & manual 5spd tranny.

Suzuki sidekick white